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Table of contents
1 Background
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Contributors to beach changes
1.2.1 Waves and beach morphology
1.2.2 Storms
1.2.3 Wave-induced currents and undertow
1.2.4 Sediment budget
1.2.5 Sea level variations at the coast
1.3 Measuring beach changes and profile
1.3.1 Several techniques for measuring beach morphology
1.3.2 Altimetry and video for continuous coastal monitoring
1.4 Shoreline model review
1.4.1 Modeling shoreline changes driven by longshore transport
1.4.2 Modeling shoreline changes driven by cross-shore transport
1.4.3 Longshore and cross-shore integrated model
1.5 Conclusion
2 Study area, methods and data
2.1 Introduction
2.2 The Bight of Benin, Gulf of Guinea
2.2.1 Location and general overview
2.2.2 Oceanic forcing
2.2.3 Harbors and coastal infrastructure
2.2.4 River discharges
2.2.5 Grand Popo beach, Benin
2.3 Data
2.3.1 The Grand Popo 2014 field measurements
2.3.2 Waves from Era-Interim global reanalysis
2.3.3 Tide gauge and FES2014 model
2.3.4 Satellite measurements
2.3.5 Video-based station, images and processing
2.4 Conclusion
3 Depth inversion and sea level from video
3.1 Introduction
3.2 New approach in the temporal method of estimating wave celerity
3.2.1 Approach statement
3.2.2 Validation of video-derived depths
3.3 Error proxies in video-based depth inversion: temporal celerity estimation
3.3.1 Background
3.3.2 Depth Error Estimates
3.3.3 Kalman filter
3.3.4 Results
3.3.5 Discussion
3.3.6 Conslusion
3.4 Sea level at the coast from video-sensed waves
3.4.1 Background
3.4.2 Water level estimation
3.4.3 Results
3.4.4 Discussion
3.4.5 Conslusions
3.5 Conclusion
4 Beach response to multi-scale wave forcing and sea level variations
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Beach response to wave forcing from event to inter-annual time scales
4.2.1 Background
4.2.2 Methods
4.2.3 Results
4.2.4 Discussion
4.2.5 Conclusions
4.3 Beach adaptation to intra-seasonal sea level changes
4.3.1 Background
4.3.2 Sea Level Data
4.3.3 Intra-seasonal sea level forcing
4.3.4 Detection algorithm for intraseasonal sea level event and Kelvin waves
4.3.5 Intra-seasonal beach response
4.3.6 Influence of intraseasonal sea level variations on beach morphology
4.3.7 Conclusions
4.4 Conclusion
5 The Bight of Benin coast evolution from 1990 to 2015
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Sedimentary cell dynamics in the Bight of Benin
5.3 Trends in shoreline evolution
5.4 Causes of shoreline mobility in the Bight of Benin
5.4.1 EOF Analysis
5.4.2 Longshore sediment transport, coastal infrastructures and rivers sand supply
5.4.3 Influence of South Atlantic climate dynamics
5.4.4 Localized sand mining
5.4.5 Outer shoreface/inner shelf sand supply
5.4.6 Future management and climate change
5.5 Conclusion
6 Modeling regional coastal evolution
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Data form employed
6.3 Modeling regional coastal evolution
6.3.1 Background and theoretical formulations
6.3.2 Model set-up
6.3.3 Model calibration
6.3.4 Model validation
6.4 Simulation results for selected scenarios
6.4.1 Overview
6.4.2 Transport pattern without harbor structures
6.4.3 Nourishment to remedy downdrift erosion
6.4.4 Influence of reduced boundary transport
6.5 Discussion
6.6 Conclusions
Conclusions and Future Research
