Waste culture in the fast fashion industry

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Perceived behavioural control

The third factor was added when the TRA was extended to what we now refer to as the TPB, to account for behaviours that people have incomplete control over (Ajzen, 1991). PBC refer to an individual’s capability and confidence level to perform a certain behaviour (Ajzen, 1991); this factor is a function of how much perceived control the individual has regarding the availability of personal or situational resources and opportunities, and how important the individual perceive these resources and opportunities to be to reach a certain outcome (Chang, 1998; Mathieson, 1991). Hence, you are more likely to engage in behaviours that you have control over (Conner & Armitage, 1988), so even though you have a favourable attitude and/or subjective norms toward the outcome, you might still not perform the behaviour due to lack of resources and opportunities (Madden, Ellen, & Ajzen, 1992; Mathieson, 1991); this could for example be the lack of time, money, skills and/or cooperation of others (Ajzen, 2011).
The indirect effect on the level of PBC is the intention to act on a certain behaviour, referred to as motivation in the TPB. The stronger the intentions, the more likely someone is to perform a certain behaviour. The direct effect on the level of PBC is the actual control over a behaviour, referred to as ability in the TPB (Ajzen, 1991; Zhou et al., 2013). However, it should be emphasized that the focus is on the perceived ability to perform a certain behaviour, which could in fact differ from the actual ability depending on the accuracy of perceptions (Ajzen, 1991).

Intention and behaviour

When connecting all the factors to each other, it is evident that the strongest intention to perform a behaviour would be when the attitude and subjective norms are as much in favour of the behaviour as possible, and the individual is perceived to have as much behavioural control as possible (Ajzen, 1991).

Theory of Planned Behaviour and consumer behaviour

Some previous research has been done on the TPB in relation to consumer behaviour. When focusing on the fashion industry, this research has primarily been on consumer purchasing behaviour and what motivates people to purchase fashion (Valaei & Nikhashemi, 2017) or sustainable fashion (Cowan & Kinley, 2014; Onel, 2017; Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018). Wiederhold and Martinez (2018) state that the factors that influence ethical consumer behaviour in the fashion industry are price, access to information, and access to sustainable options. Similarly, Valaei & Nikhashemi (2017) state that the factors that predict consumer behaviour in the fashion industry are brand, price, style, country of origin, social identity, and self-identity; social identity refers to the influences from the consumer’s social references, and self-identity refers to the ability to express the own identity without being influenced by social references. Cowan and Kinley (2014) state that the intent to purchase environmental fashion is linked to environmental concern, perceived environmental knowledge and attitudes toward the purchase. Onel (2017) states that a pro-environmental purchasing behaviour is possible with communication through marketing strategies; this could be done by communicating favourable or harmful consequences that result from sustainable versus non-sustainable purchasing. Moreover, one of the main findings is that consumers do not feel like their behaviour of purchasing sustainable fashion can make any significant difference (Cowan & Kinley, 2014; Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018). Onel (2017) proposed a solution to this by emphasising the power of individual actions through marketing; one way to induce a sustainable purchasing behaviour is to inform consumers about their responsibility and capability to affect the environment.

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Theory of Planned Behaviour and recycling

Some previous research has also been done on the TPB in relation to recycling; because not much has been done on recycling in the fashion industry so far, research on household recycling is discussed here as well. It has been found that the reason for people to reuse or resale is to save money; hence, the recycling behaviour would be supported by offering some discount. Donation, however, was mainly done for charity reasons, and more connected to the attitude toward the environment (Joung & Park-Poaps, 2013); it has been shown that people are willing to recycle for the societal benefit, and do not necessarily need any personal advantages from doing so (O’Reilly & Kumar, 2016; Taylor & Todd, 1995). However, the recycling behaviour is impacted by obstructs such as the change of routine, finding the time, the lack of availability, and the lack of information (O’Reilly & Kumar, 2016). In the fashion industry too, disposal of clothing is related to convenience (Joung & Park-Poaps, 2013). Consequently, the reduction of these effort-related costs could reduce the obstructs for performing recycling (Onel & Mukherjee, 2017). It is therefore important to focus on societal benefits and how to enhance consumers PBC when communicating a waste reduction behaviour (Onel & Mukherjee, 2017; Taylor & Todd, 1995). Furthermore, subjective norm and PBC may be more important in situations where waste reduction behaviour is not as deep-rooted (Taylor & Todd, 1995), as people tend to rely on others when they have no prior experience of the behaviour themselves (Burnkrant & Cousineau, 1975; Joung & Park-Poaps, 2013). Hence, the importance of behavioural norms during the early stages of the life cycle have been emphasized, as well as the fact that family has a significant influence on the recycling behaviour, whereas friends have not (Joung & Park-Poaps, 2013).

1 Introduction 
1.1 Background and problem formulation
1.2 Purpose and research question .
2 Literature Review 
2.1 Waste culture in the fast fashion industry
2.2 In-store recycling
2.3 Attitudes toward recycling
2.4 Theory of Planned Behaviour
3 Methodology and Method
3.1 Methodology
3.2 Method
4 Empirical Findings 
4.1 Lack of information about the recycling process
4.2 Attitudes toward clothing store
4.3 Social and personal norms
5 Analysis
5.1 Attitude toward the behaviou
5.2 Subjective norms
5.3 Perceived behavioural control
6 Conclusion 
7 Discussion
7.1 Practical implications
7.2 Future research .
7.3 Limitations
References
Appendix

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Factors influencing the intention to perform in-store recycling

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